Oman - Different perspective

Two days in the office with sand still in my shoes were over in a second and we had another long weekend ahead. We agreed with Jana, Jaro and Milan that this is a good opportunity to explore more from the “distant” Oman. At first we wanted to go the Oman’s very south province Salalah, but 1300km was too much even for four days, so we changed our plan to going around Nizwa or a bit south of Muscat only. We did not have any particular schedule or plan. Everything we want to decide on spot as per our mood J Pure improvisation!!

We took two cars, one with Dubai people and other with Abu Dhabi guys, and we were supposed to meet at 10pm on Tuesday after Al Ain border. We finally met at 2:30am, because of all possible reasons for delay. Anyway…we drove a bit more that night to be closed to our fist destination: Jebel Shams mountains and the Grand Canyon of Middle East.

Next morning after a short sleep on a stony bed next to the road, we drove 1000 meters to the top of the canyon to do a small hike to an abandoned village, hidden on the canyon’s steep slopes. An easy two hour hike with a stunning panorama of the bottomless crack in the ground under the Oman’s highest mountain took us to a strange place.

To a place where twelve families who used to live in a couple of tiny houses stuck to the rock under the huge overhang, with basically no access route other than a narrow path we came on, with no space to move around because of a 100 meter drop 20 meters from their doorways, but well protected against the enemies and with a permanent supply of water in a small lake. Perfect for a couple of weeks maximum J The time was different!!

We didn’t take the same way back as the most of the people have to take. Why? Because we were climbersJ with all the gear, so we enjoyed doing a nice Via Ferrata out of the canyon.

And then I stupidly crashed my camera, because a gust of wind blew down my backpack with the camera on top, while we wanted to take a picture of us all. Pity, but hopefully it won’t be that expensive to repair it. So with a tear in the eye I look for the last time into the canyon, turned around and followed the others back to the cars.

After another night in the stony bed we decided to skip the hike to the Oman’s highest mountain and instead we did a road trip to the ancient city of Nizwa, former Omani capital, to see one of the typical Arabic forts. Impressive but in comparison with all those huge European castles it was nothing. “Here they were fighting with spears and honey, while in Europe with cannons and rifles” commented Jaro and but we all agreed, that against spearmen that fortress was quite good ;)

We didn’t have enough time to check other forts in the city of Sur, so we chose to explore the beauty of Wadi Ash Shab, according to the book, one of the most beautiful places in Oman. And it was definitely spectacular. A deep crack in the ground opening into the sea with a small stream lined with palm trees running at the bottom.

We wanted to hike to the end where should be an underwater cavern which you have to swim into. We involuntarily hired a local guide, who wanted to make money by showing us the obvious pathJ But at the end he was actually useful because he showed us the cavern, which we or another crazy group we met there, couldn’t find! Yes…two crazy groups meeting each other few minutes before the sunset in a far end of a wild wadi! One is Czech and the other…Czech girl with Turkish boyfriend and English guy speaking Czech. Typical J

We found the cavern, but because the water level was low after summer, we didn’t have to swim through a completely flooded tunnel and you could squeeze the head between the ceiling and water. Less scaryJ

And what usually happens if two such groups meet? Yes…they go party :D So we gave to the others tent, blankets, grill, meat, beer and invited them to go camping with us to Wadi Dhaykah, where we wanted to climb the next morning. And again…everyday perfect chill next to the camp fire, with pork sausages on the grill, cool beer from the cool box and bright full moon above our heads.

There is nothing better than after another night on stones to wake up directly in the climbing area and be able to stretch your body and mind on some easy traditional routes. Whole Wadi Dhaykah was full of climbing potential and we did our best to use it. We stayed climbing up late afternoon and then tried to find camping spot on the other side of the wadi where some Dubai guys we met there pointed us to. The driving was rough between deep tracks in loose round wadi stones, but Tiguan was brave and had no major problems. Good boy J

We didn’t find that camp spot, because it was dark already, but we found a beautiful large pool. Just excellent for washing away daily dust and revitalizing the body before the evening chill on the stone field J

Next morning we drove back to the wadi and we wanted to find Hotel California crack with nice 6 pitch traditional 5c. “It’s there” I pointed out to the other side of a rough wadi bank full of big stones. “I’ll leave the car here and walk. Should be about 500 meters” I added, but Jaro had different opinion: “I’ll try to go around and if I’ can’t pass I’ll come back!”

We packed the gear and when we were about to start walking we saw Jaro passing slowly through a small water pool. We’ve learned that wadi stones are more slippery than sand and that wet wadi stones are like ice we’ve learned when Jaro got stuck and submerged up to the doors in the “shallow” pool.

With Jana we ran to check the seriousness of the situation and when we saw Jaro’s white face behind the wheel continuously pushing the throttle not to suck water into the engine through the submerged exhaust pipe and with his feet being washed by cold wadi water, we realized that this is very serious.

Pulling the car out with human force was impossible. So I inspected a possible access path from the other side, cleaned out the biggest boulders and slowly drove close to Jaro to try to pull him out with German force. Floor it…jerk the Pajero half a meter…get stuck in a geyser of stones…reverse…floor it…jerk it…get stuck…reverse………It was tough, but we made it J There was nothing better so see than Jaro’s happy grin when his “Precious” got saved from flooding and destruction!! At the end my car was probably more damaged than his from all the stones drumming on the chassis and from one which punctured somehow the aluminum rim from inside that I had a flat tire!! Happy end J

We didn’t have time left for climbing at Hotel California, so we only inspected the routes and agreed that the final rehearsal for Kenya would happen here and we slowly left towards home on an emergency tire. We tried to get it fixed in nearby town, but you can’t expect Omani garage men to perform such a delicate operation as aluminum welding J

We wanted to go to see the biggest Omani fort on our way back, but we were short of time so we changed our destination to Muscat old city center with beautiful sea promenade, sultan’s castle, traditional market and a milk shake on the street. Nice point after even nicer four day trip.

Oman is the same as UAE and different in the same time. It’s Arabic, but a bit more Arabic, ancient and traditional than UAE. It’s dry, but a bit greener, water full and live. It’s mountainous, but a bit higher, deeper and steeper. It’s beautiful, but a bit more attractive, thrilling and natural.

And maybe it’s just because I’m not living there and it seems to me better, because I don’t have it every day. And as I’m thinking about it…I would probably change my opinion when I have to work there :D

It’s civilized, but a bit poorer, older and more dangerous!!